Abriendo los Ojos por Fin

  Tomorrow is the day!! 3 and a half months later, my wonderful journey is finally coming to an end! This week has blown by, with finals, presentations, and of course packing. I really have not had time to even sit down and think about the huge change that will be occurring tomorrow.

   Thinking about it, I don't even know how I feel about leaving! Yes, I am ecstatic about coming home to my cozy bed, family, and all the amazingness that is Christmas and New Years. But, I am not excited about leaving this warm, beautiful country. I love bazillion different types of fruits I each each morning, the music, my wonderful family, and exploring.

  I'm going to miss the delicious breads, and making a daily visit to the bakery for coffee and empanadas everyday after class. And the traveling- don't get me started on the traveling. At our farewell lunch today, we went around and told about some of our most memorable moments, and every single one occurred at some point while we were traveling. We had everyone almost in tears from laughing so hard!

   These last few weeks have been pretty busy, so reflection time has been limited. I was really concentrated and studying and writing, and on top of that I had to do some Christmas/ souvenir shopping, and now the last few days I have been packing. I'm also still working on a small handmade card for my family. Busy busy! Taking the time now, I realize how sad I am to leave. As cliche as it sounds this has been if not a life altering, at least an attitude altering experience. I have really learned how to take life in strides now. When you stop worrying about the little things and instead start learning to savor every detail, the way you feel and experience life changes.

   I keep telling friends how proud I am of myself because I rarely cry here! Its very true. Back home I am the emotional friend. I get my feeling out by crying, for everything. Yet, right now I can't remember the last time I cried. My biggest fear is that I'm going to get home and forget all I've learned here, make an about face and return to who I was.

   For now I'll remain optimistic. I don't believe the last few months will just disappear from my mind. There is no way the things I've seen and lived through here will go without a fight, they made to big of an impact on me. I think about every thing differently. Development, human rights, the United States and world relations- so many sides to all of these things that I would've never learned from a book. Being exposed poverty, real extreme poverty especially in Nicaragua- I still get a lump in my throat just thinking about it.

  All these things have helped me realize certain huge things concerning my future. I want to pursue international relations more then ever now, and while there are so many sides to it I think I truly belong on the diplomatic side. I decided I am definitely going to pursue my dream of studying law, except I hope to be able to focus on international and human rights law. But before all of this, I want to apply for Teach for America.

  Ok, random much? Yes, its strange considering I love being abroad and I like to look at things internationally way more then dealing with the complexities and frustrations that is the US government. If I learned anything here though, it was that the importance of education is unmatchable. With everything we studied- development, economics, politics, participation, human rights- it all came back to one thing. Education. It truly is what fuels change, and if I can make a difference in any child's education I will be beyond happy.

  Good bye Costa Rica, it has been real!! One last HOORAH tonight before we all fly our separate ways.

  Hmmmmmmmm, where to next??

Day 102

    102 days ago I arrived in San Jose, a bright-eyed student fresh off the plane, leaving the USA for the first real time in my life. I remember being dropped off at my host family’s house thinking, “Wow, this is it,” right before my amazing host mom Hilda ran out of the house to give me a huge hug and tell me how worried sick she had been since my flight had gotten in late. 

Walking in Parque Nacional.

   That first week was a nightmare. My confidence sunk to an all time low, despite the fact that I could communicate better then almost all of the other students. I did not feel comfortable walking through the streets, and getting me to explorer downtown with its throngs of people, tiny streets, and overall dirtiness was like pulling teeth. One of the biggest challenges was regaining my confidence and independence in this new place.  Not to mention the fact that I had to make friends, without the luxury of being stuck together 24/7 in dorms. Facebook became our best friend in communication, hence the next biggest challenge: making plans and meeting up without cell phones. I could have gotten a local phone but I wanted to experiment and see how my semester would go without a cell phone glued to my hand like my Blackberry has been since the day I bought it. Like all things in life, there was no choice but to overcome! Little by little I pushed myself to explore further and further, first with friends then alone. I got over my initial fears, and learned to channel them into awareness and safety. I regained my confidence, and improved more then I imagined with my Spanish skills.

   Although I’m still not allowed to cook and clean for myself, I gained my independence in other ways, mostly these last few weekends exploring San Jose and all it has to offer. I made friends, AMAZING ones! And while I am not walking away with a whole groups of new friends, I am leaving with two new best friends that have helped me more then anyone through the last few months. Together we’ve dealt with homesickness, illnesses, and traveling, tough situations, and yes, even long distance break ups. I quickly got used to the fact that internet was our best way to communicate, and we all have gotten pretty good at getting to the designated meeting spots on time, without losing anyone. 

    When I think back on this experience and how I’ve changed most, I’d have to say besides all the academics and what I’ve learned, I think its been my ability to adapt and keep a clear head when reacting to situations has changed the most. I have truly accepted the “Tranquila” Tico attitude, and I hope more then anything I can maintain it when I get back to the hectic streets of DC.  I have really learned how to just be happy and grateful here, of everything I have, and at all times.

After some gift shopping in an arts market.

   I look forward to returning to DC and regaining my full independence! I can’t wait to be living and cooking again with my best friend, listening to music as loud as we want and cooking what we please. I can’t wait to walk around the beautiful clean streets, go running by the National Mall, and just calling up friends to grab lunch. I look forward to so much, but at the same time I am very sad to be leaving my new family and home. I hope when I get back I can spread some of my tranquila attitude with my friends and family- Oh and cook for them all the amazing stuff I’ve learned to make here!!

    

Update on life here in the CR: My last weekend here has just officially ended! It was a great on though, and ended up being a great way to tie up the semester. Friday included a nice sunny lunch in Parque Nacional, which is downtown. I had never really taken the time to visit this landmark, as it is usually raining. However, this sunny day was brilliant, and besides getting some sun, we got in some great people watching. Afterwards we walked to a local artisan market and did some gift shopping. The market was incredibly small and cramped, and everywhere I turned people were trying to usher me into booths, thinking I was some flustered gringa. Loved the look on their faces when I spoke nearly perfect Spanish right back at them. I am Cuban ya know!! 

   Saturday was just as sunny early on, but because of looming clouds we headed to a mall/ theater after a quick walk downtown. After asking nearly everyone working in the area to tell us about this movie called, “ Todo Sobre mi Desmadre,” we finally figured out it was actually Get Him to the Greek.

     Saturday night turned out to be one of the best experiences I’ve had here thus far. Carlos and Hilda invited me to help them decorate the Christmas tree! I felt so integrated into this amazing family; I was even allowed to put the star at the top! We spent about two hours decorating, listening to Christmas music, and doing normal family stuff.  We celebrated finishing with a toast of wine, and I could not have been happier. This morning I took a nice long jog around the University of Costa Rica campus, just thinking to myself that life could not get better then it was at that exact moment; the sun shining through the gigantic trees, cool breeze blowing, every thing falling into place. Tomorrow starts finals week, my last week.  Take a deep breath and…… GO!

Decorating the tree with Carlos!

                                 

Tico Thanksgiving continued....

Here are some pictures from the actual dinner I cooked here in Costa Rica! Finding ingredients was a bit more of a challenge then expected, but I made due with canned/ boxed food. Everything turned out much better then anticipated. My family here put so much into this dinner it was touching! They set up the fancier dining room which we've never used, and asked me plenty of questions about the tradition. My host mother Hilda gave a beautiful prayer before hand, and we each went around and gave our thanks. They told me how much they enjoyed this holiday and its meaning. Thanksgiving abroad was fabulous, and I felt even more blessed about this opportunity then I had before.

                                    

A Tico Thanksgiving!!

  Thanksgiving, or Dia de Accion de Gracias as it is known here, is fast approaching! I have been daydreaming of creamy mashed potatoes, hot biscuits, turkey, and delicious pies for the past two weeks!! Unfortunately, turkey is not easy to come by here in Costa Rica. The good news is that after speaking with my host family, we will be having a makes shift Thanksgiving dinner!! While cooking is by far not my thing, I have volunteered to make mashed potatoes and gravy, corn, biscuits, and possibly a pie. When I say make, I mean look for a box or can with the easiest instructions. I asked my family if on this night we could all eat together, and I hope to incorporate some of my own family’s traditions. These are: going around and giving thanks for something before we all start to eat, and serving everything family style in the center of the table. As much as I long for a traditional Thanksgiving, I know this will be anything but that. We’ll probably eat chicken or fish, and I’m sure there will be some yucca, and rice and beans on the table as well. But hey, that’s what this is all about. I’m in a foreign country to learn about another culture, which unavoidably celebrates holidays different from the typical American ones. My hope is that just as my wonderful host family has taught me so much about the Costa Rican culture, I can teach them a little something about American culture. The Center of North American Culture in downtown San Jose will also be holding a typical Thanksgiving meal around lunch time on Thanksgiving day, and a few of us in the program are hoping to attend that as well. It should be a nice way to get our fix of Thanksgiving food, and being able to share our overseas Thanksgiving with other American here in Costa Rica. It should be an interesting experience! While I will definitely be missing my big Cuban family back in Miami, I am excited to share this special day with my new family! Plus, my family back home will be sure to include me in the festivities by calling me on Skype. I’ll be sure to add pictures of my Costa Rican Thanksgiving in next week’s blog!

The turkey dinner I have been daydreaming about!

   Since it is the week of thanks, I have to say Thank you to everyone that supported me in coming to Costa Rica this semester despite my fears and doubts. I also want to thank everyone that has been there for me this semester, listening to me when I was  homesick and laughing with me about all of my many adventures. This has been a Roller Coaster ride of a semester, and I could not have done it without you all!! Thank you God for all the amazing people in my life and for keeping me safe here in Central America.

All the Places You'll Go!

Muddy after zip lining in Monteverde.

Rocking J's hostel in Puerto Viejo.

 One of the greatest parts of my study abroad experience has been the times I have gotten to spend traveling. Not having classes on Fridays has made it easy to plan weekend get aways. To date, I have been to Manuel Antonio National Park, Monteverde, Irazu Volcano, Puerto Viejo, Limon, Nicaragua (Isla Ometepe and San Juan del Sur) and Tamarindo. From my travels I have learned so many things! Like how you can still have a good time on a budget. Traveling has added to my study abroad experience because I have been able to push myself out of my comfort zone, meeting people, trying things I never though I would, and sleeping in places that would usually make me want to scream. I saw my first monkey, and the beauties of almost untouched land in Manuel Antonio. In Monteverde, I learned about dairy farming, how American Quakers settled the land, and took a leap of courage by zip lining through the cloud forest. I saw my first ever volcano, Irazú, and was able to stare down into its crater, when the clouds weren’t in the way! In Puerto Viejo I saw the Rasta side of Costa Rica, heavily influenced by Caribbean culture, and a city were racism and discrimination virtually did not exist. In Limón I learned the basics of sustainable farming and rural tourism, and had the chance to live with a family on a farm, fishing, learning about the plant life, and sleeping with a restless bat flying around the room.

Riding a bus with locals in Nicaragua. 

 In Nicaragua I got a look into a completely different world, where poverty is sadly still too common, but where the people still live on, getting by day by day with a smile on their faces and a welcoming attitude.
Finally, on my last trip to Tamarindo, I got to experience first hand the wonder of meeting amazing new people from all over the world, and just how great good company can really be. I had my first of several hostel experiences, each one better then the last. Maybe because of all the crazy hostel themed horror movies I’ve seen, this was not something I was looking forward to. But I actually have come to love the sense of friendship and community you get from cooking in a hostel’s kitchen, talking to everyone around you getting to know where they are from and why they are here. Physically I have had to push myself; I’ve gone on some intense hikes (by my standards), flown high above the trees, and trekked with a heavy backpack farther then I ever planned. Mentally, I started off always worrying, wanting to have every thing planned out and to be home early every sunday so I could get work done, and ended up going with the flow and even enjoying myself so much I stayed an extra day in Tamarindo. I even had to push myself when it came to a sense of safety, traveling always on public buses used by locals, and crossing a border into a once war torn country. One of the most enlightening parts of my recent travels has been the people I’ve met. They have ranged in age, gender, sexual orientation, and nationality; each with a unique story of how they ended up in the same place as me.

Hostel on Isla Ometepe, Nicaragua, situated between two volcanoes.

I have learned so much from these people, from their opinions of Americans and the USA, to the different trials and tribulations of life, to the importance of embracing your age and just living your life to the fullest. The Ticos I’ve met have taught me about the culture, the history, and most importantly the land so many of them are trying desperately to preserve. I’ve made two amazing friends that I’ve gotten so close to mainly because of the crazy and chaotic situations traveling has put us in together. Every now and then we think back and say, “ Wow, that was crazy! Are we really still alive?!” Studying in San Jose has taught me the academics behind development and human rights.  Traveling has taught me the realities of life in Central America. 

Attempting to surf in Tamarindo. 

As I begin the count down to my return to the United States I begin to realize just how amazing my time here has been, and how it would not have been nearly the same with out all of my many adventures. Looking forward, I know I will forever remember the lessons learned and wonderful moments, and I will always carry with me the memories and relationships I’ve made during my days on the road. The sunsets, the fits of laughter, the moments of terror, the exhaustion, the butterflies in your stomach, the nights spent sleeping in a hammock- those are the things that have made my experience. 

Tensions Rising

Nicaraguan Flags on the boat we were on to Isla Ometepe.

   Last week I wrote to you about the border dispute between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, that rose from the fact that a Nicaraguan dredging project had been allegedly dumping sediment on Costa Rican land damaging property and protected land. While the countries have been seeking to create a diplomatic solution, this week the situation intensified when a Costa Rican police helicopter found Nicaraguan troops on Costa Rican land. The Organization of American States awarded the piece of land, called Calero Island, to Costa Rica last year, after the countries had been disputing the border. Nicaraguan troops took a Costa Rican flag down, put up a Nicaraguan flag, set up camp with weapons, and damaged property. Due to this, Costa Rica called an emergency meeting with the OAS in order to settle the dispute before any further intrusions occurred. Most of the anger is over the fact that Nicaragua would send troops into a country with no military. This is a huge violation of international norm. However, in my opinion this is just a show for attention; there is no real intention to attack. Why would Nicaragua do something that would set almost all of the Western Hemisphere against them?

On the beaches of Isla Ometepe.

What has really interested me is the reaction of the Costa Ricans. It seems as if this week, xenophobia towards Nicaraguans has increased three fold. Nicaraguan migration to Costa Rica is very similar to that of Mexicans moving into the USA. Many Costa Ricans become upset because they say that the Nicaraguans come and use their social services without paying, take up jobs, and overpopulate cities. Worst of all, I have heard Costa Ricans say that Nicaraguans are born violent people, and come to Costa Rica just so that they can kill their wives. The Costa Rican people have been nothing but amazingly nice to me since I arrived more then two months ago, so it’s very strange to be hearing this from so many people. It’s terrible how a border spat between two governments can cause such hatred and tensions between their people. While immigration is a huge issue, the answer is not to be xenophobic. I have seen these feelings in the  USA, just as I am sure my family experienced it when the first arrived in America. It is truly disheartening to realize that it happens in so many parts of the world, especially in “peace loving, “ Costa Rica where everything is Pura Vida, and a large percentage of the population is foreign. I hope the border dispute ends quickly and peacefully, and that the entire region can change its negative attitude towards its neighboring countries. Without a change in attitude it is hard to see any progress occurring at all. It has been an enlightening week as far as learning about Costa Rica-Nicaraguan relations,  and it has made me realize even great people with the best intentions can say hurtful, educated things, and the only solution is to learn about the true problem and understand one another.  

A mural in downtown San Jose, Costa Rica, saying "Save the Earth."
Just an example of Costa Rica's commitment to peace.

Costa Rica- Nicaraguan Tensions

   Just this past weekend, something big occurred within Central American and Costa Rican relations. On the northern border of Costa Rica with Nicaragua, is the San Juan River, which lies on the Nicaraguan side, but marks the border. Within the last month, The Nicaraguan government had started a dredging project, and this weekend it came to light that the left over sediment was being pumped into Costa Rican territory, damaging goods and property. In a very uncommon show of force, the Costa Rican government sent police to the area in order to investigate these allegations. After they had determined that there had been damage, and had retrieved video evidence of the Nicaraguan pipes being placed in Costa Rican lands, the government was able to file a formal complaint, and most recent news says that the dredging had been called off, and that fisherman had heard over their radios calls for the pipes to be moved back to the Nicaraguan side.

   Besides the fact that the Nicaraguan side intruded and damaged Costa Rican property, the head of this entire project is Eden Pastora, known as Comandante Pastora, a Nicaraguan Revolutionary hero. His violent past makes the motives of these actions questionable, with many Costa Ricans believing there were aggressive intentions. All of this becomes even more frightening when you consider that the small country of Costa Rica has no military, only a diminutive police force that is traditionally not professionally trained. Since being in Costa Rica I have heard a lot about Costa Rican- Nicaraguan relations. It is very common to hear about the problem of illegal immigration into Costa Rica from Nicaragua, a problem that parallels that of the USA and Mexico. However, due to its traditionally non-violent, military-less past, this intrusion has stirred up a lot of resentment. While this is an obvious violation of the border, Costa Rican officials have handled the situation well, sending in many investigators before coming to conclusions. Central America has unfortunately encountered its fair share of violence and tumultuous relations, and it would be ideal to be able to settle this dispute diplomatically in order to avoid any further conflicts. If a military conflict were to erupt, this would be a huge blow to Latin American stability overall, as the International community would be obligated to intervene on behalf of the unarmed Costa Ricans. This could create a problem with countries taking side and sending in various forms of support.

   The good news is that this weekend I was in the province of Guanacaste, lying on the Nicaraguan border and I heard nothing of this news, meaning the problem is not yet serious enough to be affecting every day life. Lets hope it stays that way!

Costa Rican College Life

At EARTH University, learning about sustainable agro-tourism.

    Studying in Costa Rica, one of the biggest obstacles for me has been adjusting to the student life here. Back at GW, life revolves around campus. You live there, walk downstairs to visit friends in their dorms, work on campus, study there, eat there, attend meeting for student groups and clubs. For the last two years I have gotten very used to walking around campus running errands bumping into at least a few friends every time I’m in the streets, and being surrounded by my friends and classmates in our own small little community.  This makes the differences here so surreal. At ULatina, there are no dorms; in fact the campus is just two, three story building with two small food courts. There are no student life centers, study buildings, lounges, or anything that really screams student life. Many of the activities include job and study abroad fairs, but no student organization fairs. There are no sport teams, or performing arts groups. This is a killer for me, being a dancer and a Floridian, where high school and college sports are some of the most important things on campus. This makes for an interesting dynamic, where it seems as though most students attend school as if was a job- totally necessary but not where you want to spend you time. While I’ll admit sitting in a cold lecture hall for and hour and a half is not my favorite place to be, when I’m there I’ll always quickly seek out some friends, laugh a bit, and go grab some coffee afterwards. Another difference is that while I am used to getting classes out of the way early and then going to work or an internship, here the school is jammed packed come 6pm!

Shell searching in Tamarindo.

     I have also heard the private university I am attending is very different from the public university down the street. There, I know they have sports teams, a student government, and other aspects of student life that I am used to. One thing I do miss- good ole school spirit. While GW has been criticized for lacking in this area, I can proudly say I strut around in my GW sweatshirts and other gear all the time, but I have yet to see a single piece of ULatina anything. While these may sound like insignificant differences, seeing as the real purpose of college is to learn, for us in the USA College life is the fun, the comraderie, and living a certain way. But hey, one difference I don’t mind at all is my three-day weekends, which I can use to travel to tropical rain forests and beaches. While there are many dissimilarities, that’s the reason for going abroad. If I had stayed in DC, living my normal life, I would’ve never had the chance to visit all the amazing places I have while being here. I wouldn’t have gotten to go to Nicaragua, or to Tamarindo this weekend where I met some amazing people. And I never would have gotten to experience College life from a Central American standpoint.

Pacific Coast sunset!

Another picture of the beautiful sunsets in Tamarindo.

  A little update on my weekend travels: This weekend we spent an amazing 4 days in Tamarindo in the Pacific coast! It was so lovely we may have even stayed a day longer and missed a day of classes…  Besides the fact that there was a beautiful beach, and the our hostel had an awesome pool and several hammocks, one of the reasons it was so great was that we met an awesome group of people on our first night. Our new friends came literally from all over the USA, and a couple where even from Europe. We had a blast surfing, and watching Pacific coast sunsets. I got into some pretty intense conversations (of the political nature of course), and it was great hearing about countries and politics outside of those just in the US. Good company is always a perk!

Getting a Little Dirty for the Environment

Banana Fields at EARTH University

  Being in Costa Rica studying Human Rights and Development, it has been essential for us to go out in the community and participate to gain first hand accounts of what life is like in Central America. Furthermore, it’s a nice change to contribute to the country that has been hosting us for the last 2 months. Because of this several students have been participating in volunteer work. A big group is working with Costa Rica Multilingual, going to high schools and helping the students (mostly vocational) learn English, which the government has deemed an essential skill for future success. I have started attending English night classes at ULatina to sit down with the students and give them some practice in the English language. They are even throwing a party for us this week! Hopefully, this week I will also begin volunteering with the Center for Women’s Studies and Investigative Research, at the University of Costa Rica, where one of my teachers works. It a part of the UCR that conducts research on the situation of Women, programs events promoting awareness of Women’s Rights, and helps victims of domestic abuse.

Some of the other students getting a "bed" ready for some seeds.

However, this weekend was by far the best experience I’ve had with participating and volunteering within Costa Rica. As a group we visited the EARTH University and La Argentina Farming Cooperative in the North Atlantic region of Costa Rica. All of Friday we spent touring the University, which is focused on Environmental and Agricultural sustainability, a very important field here in CR, and Latin America in general. We toured the Banana field and processing center and even got to work on their organic farm. With our friend Vismar, we planted corn seeds in a field, planted some sweet potatoes, and weeded by hand, since no chemicals are
used. It was great to hear from the students, most of whom plan to study sustainability for 4 years, then head back to their home countries to help implement these methods in local agriculture. Saturday we were dropped of in groups of 3-4 to stay on a local farm for the night. I was lucky enough to get to stay with one of the funders, Doña Maria in her farm, Finca La Argentina. It was beautiful! The 5 of us stayed in a loft with 5 beds and a bathroom. Her daughter and grandson where our entertainment for the night, talking to us and getting to know a little bit about us, as well as explaining to us how they ended up in this farming community. The next day we were up bright and early, and after a breakfast of fresh eggs we were off to view the property. Doña Maria showed us around, explaining every single tree, fruit and vegetable we saw. She explained to us that her farm was only for sustenance; they didn’t sell any of the produce. However, her hope was that one day the farm would be beautiful enough that they could sustain themselves solely from Eco-tourism, having tourists, students, and professor stay over at her farm to learn a bit about rural life and environmental sustainability. After that we got to fish for our own lunch, and we played a game of fútbol with Doña Maria and her grandson before eating a delicious meal of fresh fish and chicken, as well as vegetable straight from the farm. It was an amazing experience, and we were able to learn so much about rural life and the farming communities of Costa Rica. Even better was that we got to actually help out with the farming, planting, weeding, feeding animals, and creating organic fertilizer. It was the first time I had ever truly gotten my hands dirty working on a farm. I know for a fact everyone will have to see the pictures to believe me!

Cocoa Beans

It was enlightening to hear about the hardships of rural life, and the limits of the Cooperative, which we found out were financial limitations as well as lack of collective consensus on what plans to take up. Being at EARTH University was actually very inspirational. Students from all over the world have traveled near and far to learn how to make a living with agriculture, while protecting the environment. We met first year students, only 18 years old, experimenting with different planting techniques and methods, all ready to go home to their families farms to implement what they had learned. Environmental sustainability is one of the most important issues facing the international community today, and seeing how at a local level people are trying to find a solution gave me great hope. These people have all sacrificed the city life and high paying jobs to start farms in an unforgiving environment. It’s not an easy life, but they love what they are doing, and they love teaching others about it just as much. I hope many more communities in Costa Rica and worldwide can take a hint from the La Argentina Cooperation.

A few of the many fruits from Doña Maria's Farm

Cruzando la Frontera: Nicaragua

Writings like this one were very common in the streets. 

As soon as class let out on Wednesday I was off to the bus station with Aubrey, Allison, and Ben (a fellow Colonial!) After a long, traffic filled ride, we arrived in Liberia to spend the night before crossing the border in the morning. I couldn’t sleep at all just thinking about Nicaragua. Was it going to be safe? What would be waiting for me on the other side of the border? I had no idea what to expect.

  We were up by 4am to catch a bus to the border town of Peñas Blancas. Leaving Costa Rica was very easy, and during a short 4-minute walk to the Nicaraguan side the anxiety built up. It was chaotic, as expected. Immediately men were on top of us, offering taxis and buses, and I’m really not sure what else because I was so overwhelmed my brain went into shut down mode. We started walking along this fenced path, and realized it was a dead end. It was a moment of deathly panic. Why did we get sent down this dead end path? To make matters worse about 5 men were following us. As we get to the end and I’m contemplating how fast I can drop my backpacks and jump the fence, we look to the left and realize we are expected to walk through a hole in the fence. I got into Nicaragua by walking through a hole in a fence. After that things didn’t get better fast. We were overwhelmed by people and uncertain of what we needed to do. When we finally found the bus to Rivas it was a huge relief. I told myself if the whole trip were like the last hour I would be back in Costa Rica by nightfall. I was happily surprised when the bus started off and we got our first glimpse of the Concepcion and Maderas volcanoes.

Volcan Concepción

  The ride was beautiful, with large windmills lining the road, horse drawn carts everywhere, and spectacular rolling scenery. The next hour was an exhilarating ride on a ferry to Isla Ometepe, our first destination. I had my camera in hand taking pictures of the two volcanoes that sat in the middle of a giant lake, forming a small island. There a totally new adventure began. An American tour guide told us about this great hostel in the middle of everything. It ended up being a bee-infested place, about a 40-minute walk down a dirt road. Once we arrived we were basically stuck for the night because everything else was so far away and the sun was setting. We had our hearts set on the horseback riding they had advertised- except the horses were preoccupied farming! The kayaks they told us about? There were only two, and they needed an intense sterilization. Ben opted for a bike (that had no brakes.) The girls decided to walk to the petro glyphs. As we walked along the dirt road, we saw houses with no walls, and people literally living on dirt floors with animals.

  That night things didn’t get much better. We shared a cold shower with several large spiders, and as we sat in the room laughing about our adventures and saying everything was going to be ok, the power went out. Needless to say we were up at 5 am to catch the first ferry off the island. Once we got to San Juan del Sur everything was much better! We had a great private room with bathroom, lovely beach town with great places to eat and awesome people. Although things were rocky at first, it was overall my favorite part of study abroad thus far!

A parade of school students down the San Juan streets.

Sunsetting off the Nicaraguan Pacific coast

 When I first heard students were going I had said no way. All we hear about is crime, poverty, corruption, and overall insecurity. Was I willing to risk my safety just to say I had been to Nicaragua? Looking back, my decision to go was the right one. Not only did I see a country filled with natural beauty, but I got to know kind people, and besides my first few moments at the border I never felt unsafe. Yes, things were very different. All over the streets were signs saying “Long Live the Sandinistas!” and hearing from a local taxi driver we understood the deep impact years of war and struggle have made on the Nicaraguan people. It is not something easily forgotten. That combined with a corrupt government of the FSLN party that blatantly only aids its own supporters are why poverty and inequality exists.  The poverty was also upsetting, especially for someone like myself that has not traveled very far from Miami. Yet Nicaragua is beautiful and rich with natural resources. It is beginning to develop with International projects such as the windmills we saw, and like all countries it must continue working out the problems with governance. Not an east task after a civil war that led to many deaths and human rights violations. I advise anyone thinking of going to first do their research, avoid certain areas such as Managua, which the locals told us was more dangerous, and pack A LOT of bug repellent.  I wrote Nicaragua off at first, but after having visited my opinion has been drastically altered. As cliché as it sounds, this weekend was really a life changing experience. I was forced to push myself physically and emotionally, and I traveled light years outside of my comfort zone. But in the end I walked away in one piece, with beautiful pictures, and some hilarious stories. 

Drug Violence in the Region

  I have officially been in Costa Rica for 4 weeks, and the thing I have heard consistently on the news has been about the rise of crime and violence related to drug cartels. Costa Rica is a traditionally peaceful country, with no military, and low crime rates especially when related to narcotics. However, there has been a recent surge not only in Costa Rica, but within all of Central America concerning drug trafficking.  People here are blaming Mexican organized crime, saying it has taken over Mexico and is now overflowing into the rest of the region.  Many fear Costa Rica’s peaceful reputation will be lost, and President Laura Chinchilla has pledged $360 million towards confronting drug related crime. In a society where police are needed more to direct traffic and close down roads after landslides, this is a serious change.  This year, Costa Rica was named for the first time one of the top 20 illicit drug transit or producing nations in the world. This is something Costa Ricans are all furious about. They are not prepared to let there country be taken over be drug cartels. Security has increased everywhere after some recent drug related events. First, a helicopter filled with cocaine crashed into a mountain, revealing an elaborate drug ring within the country. Then, just last week, three bodies were found burned in what police are saying was drug related violence. It is so upsetting to see that a society that revolves around the environment, stability, and tourism, is being taken over by organized crime.

The street where I saw 2 young men being search by police.

    Here in San Jose, I can see the heightened security. In the neighborhood in which I live, police on bicycles are constantly riding around looking for suspicious behavior. I was told the gym in front of the house I’m living in closed down just before I arrived because it was a cover for a drug ring. On my walk to school I pass by an empty lot where construction has just started. I always got a weird feeling every time I walked by and saw groups of young men definitely not dressed for construction hanging about. Walking home from school 2 weeks ago, 4 of these men were lying flat on the floor being searched by 6 policemen and women. Another drug ring was discovered here on my block. While it makes me feel safe knowing the police are on top of the situation at least here in San Pedro, other areas aren’t doing as well.  In a country that has achieved so much progress in recent history, this is a situation that could halt much development. Instead of continuing to spend on education and development, the government must now focus on fighting crime. In my opinion, the relationship between police and citizens here is ideal, but if police participation continues to increase as does surveillance and drug checks, that relationships can be thrown off and undermined. Even more problematic is ensuring that local police with low wages are not enticed into joining up with this organized crime that could certainly generate more money than the government is able to provide for them.  All of these fears have been increasing among locals, and have therefore been in the news almost every night since I have arrived. The international community needs to be aware of what is occurring and band together to halt the expansion of drug related crime in the region. It can be a detriment to everything Central America has achieved as of late. (9/25/10)

Las Artes de los Costarricenses

     

A traditional Mola.

In Costa Rica you don’t have to go far to find artwork. The thing is most of this artwork is replicated and made in mass amounts to sell to the large waves of tourists that come through the country. I however, am lucky enough to be living with an amateur artist that should, without a doubt, be selling his work to galleries. The first thing I noticed when I arrived at my host family’s home was the beautiful artwork that adorned the walls. Oils and watercolors depicted houses with terracotta roofs, barefoot children playing, and beautiful Costa Rican scenery. It wasn’t until a week later that I came home early from class that I saw Carlos, my host father at the table intent and focused over one of these paintings. His water colors were spread all throughout the table, and next to him was the wrapper depicting Florida oranges from one of the chocolate bars I had brought as a thank you gift to them. As soon as he saw me he hid the painting of the oranges, but he showed me the rest of his work. When he is not busy coaching girls volleyball at an American country day school, Carlos spends his time creating these masterpieces. Hilda told me that Carlos always makes a small painting for each student, and I am hoping that he will gift me the one of those beautiful oranges, so that I can forever remember the humble yet passionate old man that took me into his home, and treated me as he did his own daughters and granddaughter.

    I encountered another piece of artwork in the Caribbean town of Puerto Viejo. Near the Panamanian border, this town also has many tourist trap type art booths, with sarongs, postcards, and necklaces made from shells. But what really caught my eye was a table littered with what I found out to be Panamanian Molas. Molas are pieces of fabric, sewn together in an intricate manner so that eventually you are left with a picture like image. Many depict animals, but most depict native symbols and patterns. What truly interested me about these is that it can take up to three months to produce just one. Months of work so that a tourist can buy one for $5, slap it in a frame and show it off. Now, whether these were authentic or not, I do not know, but I do know that they were beautiful, and I was heart broken when the man selling them did not show up before my bus departed the next day. Before I leave this country, my goal is to find somewhere that sells Molas, so that I can talk to someone that makes them, and find out the history of them, and the process of making this art.

    As I said before, there is an abundance of artwork in Costa Rica, even high up in the mountains of Monteverde, only accessible by dirt road. After 3 hours in a bus (a third of that spent a hole riddled dirt road over looking a sheer drop) we arrived in the town of Santa Elena, near the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Our first day there was spent walking in the rain, exploring the quiet dirt road. Along the way we found a cheese factory, an Argentinean chocolate shop, and a rural women’s art cooperative. This cooperative consists of a shop, an art studio and a day care type center. It began when a group of rural women decided to pool together their money and talents and created this cooperative. Here I found oil paintings, handmade jewelry, pots, woodcarvings, bound journals, and clothing. My favorite part was the glass case displaying hand drawn bookmarks, made by the children of the area, who prided in selling them for 50 cents to help out their mothers. I couldn’t help but buy two. In a society that does not traditionally make it easy for these types of businesses run by women to pop up, I was pleasantly surprised to see how these women were prospering. I was visiting during the off-season, but I could tell that the place would probably be full of people as soon as December rolled around. I have encountered so many different art forms in the 5 weeks that I have been here, and with 11 weeks left, I’m sure I’ll be running into quite a few more. (week of 10/1/10)

Even the restaurant signs in Santa Elena looked artsy and rustic. 

   

Academic Culture

In Washington, DC, we like our fancy kicks. 

On a warm day in DC, GW students arrive to class in their lightweight shorts, skirts, sundresses, and t-shirts. After months of snow and cold weather, we usually can t wait for the moment when its just warm enough to shake off those jeans and sweaters, boot and sneakers and replace them with our summers best. Here in Costa Rica, despite the constant heat and rainy muggy days, students at the Universidad Latina will always be seen in nice jeans, a decent top, and the girls somehow manage to walk these uneven streets in high heels and wedges! Choice of clothing is one thing I found that greatly differed between the university life I am used to, and the one I am experiencing here. However, for the most part, academic culture here in Costa Rica, or at least San Jose is very similar to the ours in the USA. Costa Ricans of my parents generation didn t attend college or university in nearly the amounts my generation is, however younger Costa Ricans definitely realize the importance of continuing education through the University level. Like in the USA, students have options to attend pubic or private universities, as well as very specialized universities. The University of Costa Rica is comparable to Florida State University; public school, many scholarship opportunities, large campus, with a sizeable student population. The Universidad Latina is similar to GWU; smaller private institution, more costly, but with a more professional/graduate atmosphere. Also similar to the US are the amount of amount of graduate students and professionals continuing their studies. Interestingly enough, most of the people I have spoken with studied something in the field of medicine. Walking the halls of the ULatina, you ll realize half the students are dressed in aqua blue or navy blue scrubs. Seeing as Costa Rica has a universal healthcare system, and is able to allocate a large amount of the budget to health, (because of high taxes and the fact that there is no military,) it makes sense that many of the job opportunities lie within hospitals and doctors offices. However, I have realized the range of majors is more limited here, especially at the ULatina. This makes sense, as students are studying topics with large job markets, but it is bit unusual not to hear students say they are studying philosophy, sociology, fine arts, dance, etc. In addition, most of the university graduates I have spoken to have gone overseas for their masters or PHDs. This is the reverse of what I am used to, from a school where mostly juniors are going abroad and professional graduate students are staying near home to study. This could be because the continuing studies institutions are not yet developed enough to provide competitive programs for professionals, or that fields outside of medicine and health studies aren t popular enough to have masters programs. On the topic of studying abroad, not a single undergraduate student I have spoken to has or even wants to go abroad. As different as things maybe academically, student life remains very much the same. I m even going tonight to the ULatina campus for some of the welcome week events! Only difference is these events include great Costa Rican music and folk dances, no free food, giveaways, block parties, Quests, student organization fairs, or prize drawings&. I really would ve liked the free IPad! (week of 9/12/10)

One of the ULatina campus' here in Costa Rica. 

The Way You See the World

Since being here, many of my previous assumptions and preconceived notions have been changed drastically. Primarily, I always felt as if Costa Ricans were very on par and supportive of US policies. This week however, I have seen a very different set of opinions come out. A few months ago, Costa Rica granted the US full access to the country in order to combat Central American drug trafficking. Also, for the last few weeks a warship has been docked in the Costa Rican province of Limon, there to perform hundreds of surgeries for the poor and fix up local schools. As a humanitarian mission most Americans and some Costa Ricans think this has been a wonderful and very needed few weeks of help for one of the poorer areas of the country. However, I was shocked to see the amount of Anti-American sentiment this brought out among Costa Ricans. Graffiti on walls around the city, you will encounter many phrases such as Fuera Gringos! meaning go home gringos, as well as other obscenities aimed at the US. One of the other students even walked by an anti-American protest going on at the campus of the University of Costa Rica. As an American here it can be pretty unsettling seeing these things. After a couple of nervous days, our brilliant Spanish teachers Ronulfo came to the rescue! Having worked with many foreigners, he did wonderfully at explaining to us common sentiments towards the US. He explained that the biggest problem stemmed from the fact that many Costa Ricans are against military ships on Costa Rican territory because of the fact that there is no military here. It can tend to be seen as an intimidation, and even a threatening act, seeing as they truly have no way of defending them selves. As far as the rallies and graffiti, Ronulfo explained to us that these things were aimed entirely at certain policies that can be seen as manipulative and exploitive in Latin America, and in no way did everyone here hate us. Like in all societies, I m sure there are a few people that may actually dislike Americans here, but for the most part, I have been treated with nothing less than utmost kindness! Besides being cat called on the streets and warned of muggings, I really have not felt threatened purely based on the fact that I am American. I mean, with dark curly hair, medium height and tanned skin, I don t exactly stick out here like some of my fellow students do. Actually, most people never notice until I start speaking Spanish and my American accent comes out when I try to say a word that may still be a bit to fancy for me. This is to my advantage when it comes to walking around the streets! It has been shocking and interesting hearing others opinions of the USA. Having never been out of the country, my eyes now have been opened to an entirely new perspective. I have met Ticos, Austrians, Germans, Colombians, Australians and many other people from varying nationalities thus far in my travels, and their opinions have varied greatly. I have heard things from, why can t you Americans mind your own damn business? to You Americans are always the nicest people I meet while traveling. While I hate hearing the negative, it drives me to work harder here, and be kind to every person I meet. Within the hands of my generation lies the possibility to change these at times negatives opinions, and what better time to start then now while I m abroad? (Week of 09/05/10)

First glimpse at La Pura Vida!

From my street, overlooking the Irazú Volcano. 

I am finally in Costa Rica! I was on an early flight, so when I awoke after 2 hours the first part of Costa Rica I saw was the beautiful, green covered Irazu Volcano. The time I spent in the airplane overlooking the mountains and in the airport was like a dream. I had finally left the USA, and was overjoyed when for the first time in my life I had my passport stamped! And then I walked out of the airport. Like a wave of heat the shock hit me, as what seems liked a hundred men stood outside trying to herd people into taxis. I speak Spanish, but in the midst of the chaos I was unable to speak and could barely fend off all the people trying to take my two (rather large) suitcases from me and stuff them into cars unsafe looking cars. Thankfully an airport employee helped pull me away and sat me down with other Americans waiting for their rides. After my very talkative guide, Adrian, picked me up, another wave of shock set in. Whenever I mentioned I was going to Costa Rica, everyone told me how beautiful and developed it was. I must have gotten on the wrong plane because the place I saw was filled with cracked, rundown, nearly impassable roads, rust filled roof tops and store fronts, and homes crowded together surrounded by gates and barbed wire. To top it all off ominous black clouds stood by waiting to pour on me. As we drove I kept praying soon we would be in a luscious green rain forest, or that I would at least see a small grouping of trees. No such luck. My cozy little homes sits in front of a gravel parking lot used for the Universidad Latina staff and students. Although the school itself is freshly painted, rather large, and includes a bank and food court, the street we are on is a bit run down. The sidewalks are all cracked, and deep ditches line the roads. Train tracks run right behind my house, which aside from being noisy is littered with garbage and graffiti. Now I m starting to realize although it may look different from DC and Miami, its not necessarily unsafe. With two other students we walked around San Pedro (the name of the area) and got some school supplies, then sat down at a cute little Soda (small restaurants that serve soda and food) and drank Frescas and ate empanadas filled with chicken. I also went to church with my wonderful host parents (Hilda and Carlos.) All this walking around made me realize I was safe here. I was just used to the impeccably clean streets of DC and the palm tree lined, perfectly manicured streets of Miami. Although I love my host family and speak Spanish, this has not been an easy adjustment. Back home and at school, most of the time is spent in the living room, talking, watching TV, cooking together and studying. Here we don t have a living room, so everyone sits in their own rooms watching TV whenever they are home. Of course my room has no TV, so I have spent many hours on Facebook and Skype harassing whichever one of my friends is unlucky enough to be online at the moment. It gets a little lonely, and I have gone to bed really early the last few nights mostly because I m not sure what else to do. I know once I am more comfortable with my host family things will feel better. Also now that classes have started I hope I will be a little busier with work, which will entertain me. I can t wait to start volunteering, so I can meet some more Ticos, and learn to find my way around San Jose better. Everyday the shock subsides a bit more, and hopefully by this weekend I ll be feeling way more comfortable here. (Week of 08/29/10)

A New Chapter in My Life

     My name is Michelle Suarez, and as of today I am a rising Junior a little over a month away from what I am sure will be one of the most exciting experiences of my life. I am a student at the Elliott School majoring in International Affairs, planning on double concentrating in Conflict and Security and Latin America. I am also pursuing a minor in Spanish. I have decided to attend the GW Latin America program in San Jose, Costa Rica with the International Center for Development Studies. The focus of this program is Human Rights, Society, and development in Latin America. Since I can remember I have always longed to experience foreign cultures and be immersed in communities very different from my own. This program attracted me primarily because of its intriguing topics and my desire to better the world community by community, starting with those that do not enjoy a full set of human rights we here in the United States do. Secondly, although I am a Cuban-American from Miami, Florida, my spanish is in need of much work, and this program allows me to live with a local family and volunteer with a local organization which I am sure will aid me in my mission to become completely fluent. Next semester will be filled with a full load of classes ranging in topics from human rights and development to Central American Literature. I will also be placed with an organization were I can volunteer and complete research in the field. Plus, I am certain I will be taking advantage of the amazing environment, such as the beautiful rain forests, volcanoes, and beaches. This will be my first time leaving the United States and I am absolutely thrilled and terrified at the same time! My time abroad is sure to be filled with memorable and growing experiences and I can not wait to open to open the book to a new chepter in my life.